
My trip to Jaffana………
Recent wave of violence in north is really painful to me because the fond memories of my visit to Jaffna are still fresh. We witnessed the destruction of war first hand, while enjoying the hospitality of sober, simple and honest people of Jaffna.
I together with Eranga, Rajitha and Lalin (all my batch mates), set out on Saturday evening, around 10.00 pm from Colombo, the 13 hour journey in a luxury bus was a unique experience in many ways, for the first time we felt, being an ethnic minority, we were the only Sinhalese in the bus. We reached Thandikulam in Vivunaya district around 3.30 am, but the A9 road is opened only at 6.45 am.
Checking at both army and LTTE check points were rather uneventful, except for the giggling of female civilian staff at LTTE check points, they were amazed at our inability to speak tamil and kept on giggling saying “Sinhalam, Sinhalam”. And it was clear that LTTE was charging taxes on imported items and goods in commercial quantities.
While passing Killininochchi we saw the “Tamil Eelam” police head quarters, its city traffic unit office, few LTTE political offices and a branch of “Bank of Tamil Eelam”, yes they seems to run de facto state there.
While in Jaffna, we were able to visit the Nallur Kovil,(photo shown above) Kinimale Sivan shrine, Jaffna library, Point Pedro, the northern most tip of Sri Lanka and the Buddhist shrine in Nagadeedpa. The Sri Lankan army does a highly commendable job in providing security (they provide personal escorts) to devotees visiting Kinimale Sivan shrine (which is located inside a high security zone).
The scenery along the road to Nagadeepa was breathtaking and Lalin couldn’t help but think the potential for tourism. We weren’t allowed take a dip in some sandy beaches because the area is land mined!
We devoured the delicacies of Jaffna cuisine with delight, sea food was plentiful and cheap, and sweets are rich in milk and fresh than what we get here.
Even with all these delightful experiences, we were profoundly shocked by the devastation caused by war. It is hard to imagine how civilized humans could commit a barbaric crime like burning down the Jaffna library. Destroyed armed personnel carriers can be seen along the elephant pass area of A9 road, almost all buildings in and around Jaffna carry marks of bullets or shelling. Faces of the people speak for the suffering they had gone through during the war, malnutrition and poverty is very evident (especially in tiger held areas).
I felt that most of the people in north have a sympathetic attitude towards the tigers, but this is not absolute and are very critical of tigers in some issues, like excessive ruthlessness and driving away Muslims from Jaffna peninsular. They cherish peace but would not compromise on their just rights. So the need of the hour is a solution which ensures the rights of minorities without impinging the rights of majority.